Cartier and Islamic artifacts

We have become so accustomed to associating Islamism with violence and terror, when there exists a totally different aspect of Islam. This heritage doesn’t have anything to do with black veils and hidden faces. On the contrary: it encompasses jewellery and artifacts of highest quality. The result of which can be viewed in Paris, at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, this winter.

In this fabulous exhibition we discover how the famous French jeweller, Cartier, was inspired by the intricate Islamic art works; as a result of which, he designed several “Islamic collections”. 500 objects, from the 1900s to this day, are displayed in this exceptional show.

Frenchmen thrive at creating beautiful scenographies and this exhibition is no exception. A mixture of art works, from Persia to India, have been some of Cartier’s major sources of inspiration. It was very interesting to follow a couple of creations from design to the finished necklaces showed in a documentary. I appreciated the finished works even more after having understood the skills that were demanded of the artisans to create them.

The famous Egyptian jeweller and designer, Azza Fahmy, has also contributed to spread delight and interest in modern high class Islamic jewellery. Her works that are appreciated internationally are for sale in different worldwide venues. (https://www.azzafahmy.com/eu/).

The French jewellers learned and were inspired by the antique Persian and Indian objects, some of which are displayed in the museum. It led to a new way of designing jewellery and other art works in Europe. Which eventually developed into what we now call “art déco”, a short for “arts décoratifs” in French – or decorative art. This development was a counter-reaction to the Bauhaus-school of simplicity and mass-production.

Oriental patterns and ancient books also inspired the jewellers. This is evident in the exhibited jewels: with their symmetric patterns and stones in sparkling colours. The entire exhibition exhalts luxury, glamour, joy, a belief in a better future and in the miracle of modern techniques.

For me, the show also represents the bridges that artists create between different cultures and the importance of learning and being inspired by each other traditions. My hope, therefore, lies in our evermore globalized world, where people of differing backgrounds mingle.

If you wish to learn more of this extraordinary Oriental heritage, then don’t miss this exhibition.

Anne Edelstam

Cartier et les Arts de l’Islam, aux sources de la modernité.

Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris

21 October 2021 – 20 February 2022

         

The Narcissus Theorem

Jean-Michel Othoniel, known in Paris for his artwork at the Palais-Royal subway station, leads us here into the world of Narcissus. 70 sculptures are shown In Paris Petit-Palais, during the autumn of 2021.

In awe, I climbed the glass clad steps to this ancient palace. Jean-Michel Othoniel had used Indian hand-made, azurcolored glass bricks, the color of the sky, to reach the gilded porch. I was wondering what it represents: the entrance from one world to another; from reality to fiction; from this world to the next? Whatever it might be, the magic operates!

This sunny autumn day, I started my visit by taking a coffee in the museum’s garden where 26 sculptures were either hung up in the trees, like pearl necklaces; hidden in the foilage or placed in its marble corridors. Narcissus makes himself known everywhere, as the visitor can’t hide from his own image, reflected in the sculptures’ mirrors.

The exhibition is fitting for our epoch, when we measure our worth according to “selfies” – posted on Internet for general approval. Othoniel is definitely a man of his time.

I walked down to the ground floor in the museum, after having admired the huge and colorful glass lamp, hanging from the high ceiling. There the atmosphere changed, as I entered a dark glass cave. It was an interesting contrast to the upper floor.

There the artist shows the result of his cooperation with a Mexican scientist, Aubin Arroyo. The mathematician’s “wild knots” reminded Othoniel of his own glass pearls. The scientist’s results marries the artist’s creations. It also shows the incredible human complexities with its endless constellations. We are alike but still so unlike each other. And that’s what’s so beautiful and mystical. Othoniel’s glass mirrors, as well as Arroyo’s knots point to the cosmic eternity.

Thus Narcissus mythology  gets another, deeper and less ego-centered significance. Let’s instead get inspired by life’s magic. Art is a reflection of our frail humanity and in the same time of our infinite creativity. From glass works to mathematical formulas, the step might not be that long after all.

Anne Edelstam, Paris

Le Théorème de Narcisse

Petit Palais, Paris

28 September 2021 – 2 January 2022       

David Hockney in Normandie

The aging famous artist, stayed in Normandie, France, during the pandemic, that nobody suspected would last for over one year. David Hockney decided to spend his time in his house and garden during lockdown, to his favorite occupation: art.

He decided to dedicate his skills to painting on an Ipad, a technique he’s been using for the past ten years.

Spring turned into summer, into fall and into winter… Recorded in this exhibition at the Orangerie, in Paris. He painted more than 100 works in this manner.

Like the former impressionists, he captures the lights and the movements and the result is a mixture of pop – and impressionist art, using vivid and luminous colors. Inspired by a 70 m. long tapestry he had seen in a Museum, he made images that have been recorded on paper and are shown in two long rolls on each side of a corridor in the basement of the museum.

It’s fun and different! Not to be missed. You have until February 2022.

Anne Edelstam, Paris

Thierry Mugler Couturissime

Paris – the capital of haute couture – shows a retrospective of one of the world’s most famous fashion- and scenery artists. The Musée des Arts Décoratifs, situated next to the Louvre has dedicated two full floors to Thierry Mugler’s creations.  

Paris cultural life is once more buzzing after nearly two years of lockdown. This exhibition gives the viewer just the energy kick needed to get going! It was like stepping into another planet. Couturissime is unlike any of the usual haute couture exhibitions. The creations, as well as the materials used, resemble more Star Wars, than Paris chic drawing-rooms.

Mugler isn’t just a fashion designer, he’s also a scenograph, photographer, filmmaker; just to mention a few of his skills. More than a retrospective, this exhibition gives us a glimpse into a part of his life and creativity.

Despite that his first collection, from 1973, took place during the hippie movement, with its bohemian fashion, his was the opposite: Mugler’s women are strong, animal-like creatures dressed in the most outrageous clothes, using vinyl and plastic.

I walked into a fairy-world inhabited by insects, sea animals and snakes. The clothes exhibited resemble those found in a movie, theater play or an opera. Their are no boundaries to Mugler’s imagination. Women’s thin waists were enhanced as were their breasts, showing deep cleavages. I was met by nymphs wearing steal corsets, a cape with enormous butterfly wings, tightly fitting fishscale dresses and heroines taken directly from cartoons such as “Catwoman”. Mugler called his women “glamazones”, i.e. modern, chic, urban, imaginative and strong women.

The last room on the first floor, was filled with scents from his different perfumes. I discreetly lifted up my face-mask to smell Angel, his most famous perfume. “I wanted to remember my childhood with a scent of hot choclate and cookies”, he said. After months of trial and error in one of the perfume factories in Grasse, the scent was finally approved and has since been an international hit.

On the upper floor, I was met by Mugler the photographer, with large, magnificient pictures, inspired by Helmut Newton, that he had also worked with. The photographs heighten Mugler’s interest in extreme nature sceneries. The mannequins were photographed on the top of Opera Garnier and on the Chrysler Building’s roof; on an Iceberg in Greenland or out in the Sahara desert. Mugler seems to be drawn to women’s power over and struggle with nature’s most inhospitable places. These women are more like “übermenschen” than women.

Thierry Mugler also fought for Aids’victims and made a collection to denounce the predjudices against them. He got several famous people to help him in this endeavor, such as Madonna, Emma Sjöberg and the trans mannequin Connie Girl, to mention a few.

David Bowie, Beyoncé and Lady Gaga also wore his creations, as is shown in different photographes. The exhibition ends bloodily, with a video clip from Mac Beth to which Mugler had designed the clothes.  

One either loves or hates this exhibition, but it won’t leave anyone indifferent, that I can assure you. I felt like I had been at the opera, the theatre, the movies and … to Jurrasic Park all at once. You’ll get for your money’s worth!

Anne Edelstam

Thierry Mugler

Couturissime

Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris

30 September 2021 – 24 April 2022

Christo and The Arc de Triomphe

For two weeks, Paris famous Arc de Triomphe, that had been attacked just a few years ago, during one of the first “Yellow vests” demonstrations, got a new autumn dress. The artist died in 2020, but this didn’t prevent the accomplishment of this incredible art work. The Arc de Triomphe, situated on top of the Champs-Élysées, got wrapped for the occasion by 25000 sqm of recyclable polypropylene in silver and blue, as well as 7000 m of red rope.

For many Parisians it was a welcome “gift” after nearly two years of lockdown during the pandemic. A gift from an interesting artist and his wife. Both of which had been working together as a team since they met, decades ago. A love letter to Paris – “la ville de lumière”.

Anne Edelstam, Paris